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Fitting External 12 Volt Shower

 

This project is well within the limits of your normal caravan handyman even though it is tapping into the 12 volt system. Their are two options. The simplest uses the existing wiring in your A'van and the second installs a completely separate circuit complete with fuse. Use the simple method if all you plan to do with the extension socket is run a small 12 volt shower as it will easily handle this as long as no one inside the van is using a hair dryer etc. at the same time. Use the second or heavy duty method if you plan to use a high capacity 12 volt shower or use the outside socket to drive a pump to do the van/car tyres. As with the other DIY projects listed on these pages you not need to solder as the connections are made using the same fittings as used in your A'van. If you have these skills though please use them as a soldered joint finished off with heat shrink is absolutely the best joint one can make. The heavy duty method goes straight to the battery. It is NEVER easy to get the top off the battery box, but lots of us have, so best of luck. Once off it is simply a matter of placing another terminal on the stack. Don't forget to have the fuse OUT at this stage or you will be messing with hot wires. A good trick is to con your wife into doing it as she will have smaller hands!! It is worse in the sofa bed model as there is a lip above the box. The wiring for the heavy duty method runs behind the fridge, so you do not need to drill holes in the floor. Ours has been on for over 6 months with zero problems and we use it almost every weekend. If later on you plan to fit more 12 volt sockets we suggest you use the heavy duty method as this will ensure you get full voltage for high loads. We chose to put the socket at the front of the van in the skirt as per the photo simply because it makes it easier to attach a shower enclosure as you have easy access to the A-frame. If you have a van with a front cargo box we suggest you still put it at the front or side of the box, but fit some protection - plywood etc. inside. The socket we are using is not cheap and is a marine unit with a built in cover. So why did we pick the spot at the front? Simple really. Most A'vanners have their TV pole at the front and this is an an ideal spot to hang a light shower enclosure from - the Li Lo unit is ideal ($48.00). This story ends by showing you alternative showering methods. Lots more info on this site on showering if you have the time to drill down into the extensive archives. A good place to start is a nice story by Siggy Nowak

 

 

WARNING:- Polarity (+ or -) is VERY important on this project or you could damage any appliance plugged into the socket. Purple is POSITIVE and white is EARTH. The CENTRE pin on the socket is POSITIVE and the outer case is EARTH or NEGATIVE.

 

Before you start we suggest as usual that you do a bit of crystal ball gazing. We used the heavy duty method but took it a step further. The electrics on your A'van are absolutely first class, but everything on earth can be improved if you are a Virgo! The A'van as supplies routes both DC circuits through a single 12 volt fuse located under the bed. This is perfectly adequate as long as you don't add too many appliances/lights etc. We prefer separate circuits wherever possible, so we used this project to set ourselves up this way. All we did was fit a "bank" of fuses near the battery box. The idea is that at some time in the future we will route all circuits SEPARATELY through this box. Now if you were very clever you could install this so that you can get access without lifting the bed. There is a fair amount of fiddly work needed to do this neatly due to the way the cover comes off and to keep the wires concealed. We took the "lazy" option and put it near the water tank under the bed! The two types of recommended fuse holders are the Narva Inline P/N 54402BL (the exact same as that in your A'van) and the Narva Fuse Box P/No. 54420BL. This unit takes four circuits and costs under $10.00 from any good auto electrician wholesaler. Note that no fuse holders come with fuses. The A'van uses BLADE TYPE 15 amp. These are ALWAYS blue. You do need to keep a small packet of these in the van at all times as you are sunk if one blows in the bush!

 

Crimping pliers and cable cutters

The excellent Dick Smith digital meter

 

You MUST have crimping pliers for this project, Another good move is to buy these in a terminal kit. You will find yourself becoming very popular at club meetings once the word gets out that you have these! Another good thing to treat yourself too or give to the light of your life as a thoughtful present is a digital meter. These only cost $25.00 from Dick Smiths and quite frankly we never leave home without one.

 

     
 

The Narva inline auto fuse

  

Typical four circuit fuse box

  

 

Materials List

1. One marine quality 12 volt socket with cover and spare plug and screws - see note (*)

2. A few metres of both 4 mm purple and white cable - we use the small 30 metre rolls from Tycab Australia

3. Two compression type cable joiners - Dick Smith or your auto electrician

4. 3 or 6 Philips head screws to suit P clips not longer than 15mm - hardware store

5. 3 or 6  P clips 5mm - Dick Smith or your auto electrician

6. Narva inline blade fuse holder & fuse - see notes above

7. Pop rivets or screws to hold in socket

(*) Note:  These sockets are sometimes hard to find. We use Auto Electrical Parts Supplies, Cnr. Moss and Pacific Highway, Slacks Creek, Qld, 4127. (07) 3208 5533. Their internal part number is AC 205150 and it comes with a plug as well. Please DON'T use the el-cheapo ones sold in car accessory shops. Our contact but since retired caravanning mate may be able to help if you have troubles - Gordon Boon

 

   
 

Top quality marine socket

  

 

Construction Details for Easy Version

This is not a 5 minute project so please start in the morning in case you run into troubles - particularly with the hole needed for the socket!

  •  If you have a 1 1/8" metal hole saw you are laughing - costs over $50.00 with an arbor. If not draw a 1 1/8" circle using a compass in a spot similar to the photo.

  •  Using a centre punch or a large nail put a row of pops around the INSIDE of the edge. Using a 1/4 metal drill next put a series of holes around the perimeter making sure that these don't go outside your pencil circle. We use 3/16".

  •  Using an old screw driver or cold chisel and a ballpein hammer if you have one, knock out the centre. Then start filing, filing, filing! You can save a bit of time by "leaning" your drill and wiggling, but this ruins the drill bit.

  •  Drill a hole through the floor of the van inside the wardrobe area. Pass the wires through and SEAL with anything you have to hand. THIS IS CRITICALLY IMPORTANT SO DON'T PUT IT OFF.

  •  Attach the socket using either pop rivets or metal thread nuts and bolts - countersunk preferred

  •  Locate the light circuit and attach wires - purple to purple and white to white. Use the two connectors to make the link. Refer to the photos to learn how to make the connections

  • Attach Utilux spade fittings - preferably the insulated type. Make absolutely certain that purple goes to the CENTRE pin

  •  Replace all the fuses and test using your shower or hair dryer.

 

Insert wires all the way in

Squeeze metal blade with pliers - close cover

 

Construction Details for Heavy Duty Version
  •  Prepare a hole and drill the floor exactly as above
  •  Attach the socket using either pop rivets or metal thread nuts and bolts - countersunk preferred
  •  Remove both outside vents from the Electrolux fridge - use a wide blade screwdriver
  •  Remove the battery cover
  • Attach a crimp terminal with a 5/16" or 1/4" hole (usually a yellow one) to the end of a purple and also a white cable
  •  Rest these on top of the battery and clamp to the van sides using P clips. It is quite OK to screw into the plywood inner walls.
  •  Roughly cut the cable to length and pass through the hole above the wheel arch. You may have to drill a hole into the fridge cavity - we didn't
  •  Route the wires along the fridge floor and pass through into the front under seat locker and  pass through the hole in the floor
  •  Attach Utilux spade fittings - preferably the insulated type. Make absolutely certain that purple goes to the CENTRE pin
  •  Use P clips to hold the cable in place - we protected it by routing under the seat and coming down near the front cupboard. This does require an awful lot of bending and trying to screw in a confined space. An alternative is to use 12 mm split loom for protection.
  •  Attach white to the NEGATIVE battery terminal and purple to the POSITIVE
  •  Replace all the fuses and test using your shower or hair dryer

Now if you handle this project without too much drama you can feel confident that you can do anything electrical on the 12 volt circuits on your trusty A'liner.

Bob Eustace

 

Some Suggested Shower Ideas

 

The shower packed in its compact bag

 Remove from the bag and just let go!

 

The structure is free standing except in windy conditions. A couple of pegs in the bottom stiffens it right up. The top is completely open. As you can see, Siggy really loves his shower tent!

 

Packing up is NOT a piece of cake and does require a knack, as it is not the bleeding obvious and the instructions are typically hopeless! The Siggy Method:- Fold up flat as per the left photo. Then twist as per the right photo then poke in bag. Best of luck! Email Siggy if you have problems.

 

The last step is to pop it back into the cover supplied. The 12 volt shower shown at right is typical of the dozens on the market. This one came from Camp Mart in Brisbane and was about $30.00. It works great in your A'van. Simply dangle the pump in the water and turn on the waterproof switch. You regulate the flow on the hand piece. Stand in a baby bath and you can have the luxury of a long hot shower!

 

Li Lo Shower

A very good example of an outside shower!  Spotted this one on the Queen's Birthday long weekend down by the river in Gordon Country near Cunningham's Gap in Queensland. It was held up with an ingenious pulley system which didn't actually come out in this photo! The Li Lo is actually a blow up gadget and folds down to a very small package. We have one of these ourselves and hang it from out Explorer TV pole and use a 12 volt shower pump. It costs around $48.00 from any large camping store. It is more effort to use than Siggy and Heathers automatic one at the top of this page, but under half the price. You can of course use an electric tyre pump to blow it up, but it is a fiddly operation and you find yourself looking for excuses not to use it! 

Bob & Chrissy Eustace

 

A big mystery! There is no one at all in this toilet/shower tent, so what is all this steam coming out of the top? Seriously this is a better example of an easy to erect self supporting model. Expect to pay around $100.00. Don't forget that this is the heaviest of all those shown if weight is a problem.

 

 

 

 

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Last updated: 24-Jan-03