Electrolux Frequently Asked Questions

 How level must my refrigerator be? 

If you have a gas absorption refrigerator, normal levelling of the vehicle is sufficient.  The refrigerator is made to operate within 3 degrees off level side-to-side and 6 degrees off level front-to-back (looking at the front of the refrigerator).
 
Why is frost on the interior cooling fins only on the right side?

It is normal to accumulate frost on the right side of the bank of cooling fins.  The coldest part of the cooling fins are those on the right side of the refrigerator as viewed from the front.  Gas/Electric refrigerators will build frost of varying amounts depending upon the environmental conditions (temperature and humidity), how often the doors are opened, and what is stored in them.  Defrosting is not required until a decline in performance is noted.

Does the refrigerator perform better on gas or electric?

The refrigerator is designed to operate efficiently on both gas and AC electric.  The AC electric is dependent upon the AC input voltage to the refrigerator.  Be sure that the input voltage is between 230 volts AC and 250 volts AC.  The efficiency of the refrigerator while operating in the gas mode is dependent upon the correct burner flame.  The burner flame requires correct input gas supply pressure, air input, and burner and burner orifice cleanliness.  Refer to the refrigerator's operators guide: "Refrigerator Maintenance and Care List."

Does a fan installed on the back of the refrigerator help performance?

A DC fan may help improve refrigerator performance when the refrigerator is not installed in accordance with installation requirements or when operating the refrigerator in high ambient temperatures.  A DC fan will assist in providing the necessary amount of airflow.

What maintenance should be performed on my refrigerator and how often? 

Your refrigerator will give you years of trouble free service if you do the following simple checks every three to six months.  Refer to the operator's guide provided with your refrigerator for more details:

CARE CHECK LIST:

Keep the food compartment and the freezer clean.

Defrost the refrigerator as necessary.

Make sure the door seals correctly.

Be aware of any cooling changes that are not because of weather, loading, or gas control changes.  If changes occur, contact your dealer or service centre.

Make sure the gas supply is LP gas only and not butane or a butane mixture.

When in LP gas operation, examine the appearance of the flame.

Make sure the air flow in the lower intake vent, through the refrigerator coils and condenser, and out the upper exhaust vent is not blocked or decreased.

Make sure the area behind the refrigerator is clear.  Do not use the area behind the refrigerator for storage of any combustible materials, flammable vapours and liquids.
 
How do I remove the wire shelves inside the cabinet?

The refrigerator shelves are secured with either clips or shelf retainer strips.  Refer to your refrigerator's operator's guide, provided with the refrigerator, for removal procedures. 

How long should it take for my refrigerator to get cold after it is started? 

On initial start-up, allow the refrigerator to cool between 8-12 hours before loading it with food.  Warm foods, high ambient temperatures and frequent door openings will increase the cool down time.

What is the cause of my refrigerator having an ammonia smell? 

An ammonia odour detected inside the refrigerator cabinet or at the rear of the refrigerator indicates the cooling unit has developed a leak and requires replacement by your dealer or an authorized service centre.  Remember, you are dealing with a complex appliance that operates on both LP gas and electrical power, servicing this unit should only be done by a trained technician to avoid potential dangerous consequences.

Is my refrigerator self-defrosting?

No.  Your refrigerator, unlike a home refrigerator, is not equipped with a heater that automatically eliminates the need for defrosting.

TO DECREASE THE AMOUNT OF FROST

Cover all liquids and moist foods.

Let all hot foods cool before storing in the refrigerator.

Do not open the door any longer than necessary.

Check door seals.

Insure freezer/refrigerator shelves are pushed securely into the freezer/refrigerator cabinets.

More information from Caravan Refrigeration Service Moorabbin Vic. at:- http://www.caravanrefrigeration.com.au/faq.htm#faq     carafrig@alphalink.com.au

We spotted all the following good info on Adrian's Campfire Board.

From previous responses I may be a little late in coming to the fire, but I hope some of this may assist with what appears to be a recurrent problem.

A number of problems can emerge from the installation of refrigerators in caravans. In general terms, the property “heat” cannot be destroyed, it can only be transferred or absorbed — in the case of a refrigerator, from the inside cabinet to the external atmosphere. The hotter the ambient temperature, the more difficult the transfer process is made. (The opposite case applies with reverse cycle heating — but that’s another story.)

To maximise the heat transfer it is essential to maximise the airflow over the baffles. In many cases the refrigerator has been plonked into a cavity with what would appear to be little thought as to the processes it has to cope with. As long as the cavity has been neatly filled, then the caravan manufacturer is satisfied.

1. Check that the unit has been properly fitted, ensuring that unwanted drafts are blocked off by adding insulating material. The idea is to ensure that the air is brought from the bottom inlet and expelled via the top outlet which should be approximately six inches above the top of the unit. This can be aided by the insertion of a curved deflector on the top outlet vent to assist the smooth passage of air. The flow is often restricted by right-angle bends. Aluminium sheet can be obtained from model shops or hardware stores and cut fairly easily cut with scissors etc and the edges protected with some insulating tape.
2. As mentioned by others, the addition of a small fan does wonders. These are now available in most caravan supply venues.
3. Spiders believe that the gas venturi has been specifically designed for them. They love to block the gas jet with their web. Ensure this is clear during your maintenance checks and that the pipe is clear from carbon build-up or other debris.
4. As mentioned by Ray Morris [1999-01-30], the 12-volt “car” wiring needs to be checked carefully to ensure that it will allow a draw of approx 12 amps per hour. If the wire does not contain sufficient strands, then the current will be restricted, not permitting the refrigerator to operate adequately when running from the “car supply”. Usually the caravan manufacturer has allowed for the draw from the car connection to the refrigerator. A draw of this magnitude will flatten a car battery quite quickly if the car motor is not running.
5. It is also important to ensure that the refrigerator door has not been warped from an accident and that the door seals are doing the job for which they were intended. Your site departure check list no doubt covers the fastening of the refrigerator door — but when they flap around unsecured this unwanted damage can occur.
6. It is also important that when the van is not being used or is in storage that the refrigerator is fired up about every two months and run for two or three days. If this is not done, the refrigerant within the unit appears to deteriorate. I do not know why, but I have been informed by a number of experts that it does.
7. During operation the unit should be as close to level as possible — this will assist proper operation. When the van is level, perform a check to ensure that the unit is also level — otherwise some maintenance is warranted.
8. Do not use flyscreens on the vents as the material coupled with dust etc blocks airflows markedly.
9. Previous suggestions on opening the top vent and providing shading will also help.
10. Using an Esky and chill blocks for items required during the day reduces the number of times the refrigerator door is opened and will assist the overall process during the hottest part of the day.
11. If the above steps still do not reduce the internal temperature, then have the unit checked out by an expert in situ as they will have the necessary gadgetry to ensure that you have not lost refrigerant, power or other unknowns. This is far cheaper than buying a new unit.
12. A cold beer or Chardonnay is always essential for a happy hour or two.

The following reinforces some comments from the June 2001 A-Clinic

The perennial fridge problem!! I “attacked” the Electrolux rep at the Melbourne show about these problems and he said that their fridges should work perfectly if they are installed correctly with about 10 cm gap between the top of the fridge and the bench top, and with the bottom of the top vent level with the top of the fridge. When I asked him to show me one van at the show with this type of installation, he agreed that he had seldom seen one!! He did advise however that the latest Jayco's had made an attempt to lift the vent by having a small box at the back of the bench to allow the vent to be higher.

I think in fact that this is the secret — my vent is level with the hot element and would not generate the airflow necessary for efficient operation, and I have installed a fan. I am thinking of writing to Jayco for a retro-fit kit for the higher vent.

The alternative is to fit a compressor fridge as they are far more efficient, and I suspect that in many cases gas is seldom used. In my case, I have dual diesel-sized batteries which would keep things cool when away from mains power.

And another one!

I read with interest the various comments regarding refrigeration, a subject that interests me as I also like my beer cold. It never fails to amaze me when I inspect vans the number of shoddy installations I find. Electrolux are very clear with their instructions, a Galah could understand them, but van manufacturers seem to have problems.

Colin sums it up very nicely, but I would like to stress the importance of having the back of the refrigerator sealed from the rest of the van. According to Electrolux, this is of the utmost importance for efficient operation in high ambient temperatures. If the bench over the refrigerator gets hot, then some sealing work needs to be done. The heat generated from the back must not be allowed to waffle around the sides and top of the refrigerator.

My own van is terrible in this respect — I have some work to do myself. However, I installed a fan, salvaged from my old computer, in the top vent. Last Christmas holidays in the bush around Mildura, with the temps hovering around 40, the refrigerator performed reasonably well, although the bench top was very hot. I feel that once I poke some batts around the refrigerator I’ll be enjoying icy cold beer no matter what the temp is.

I’ve noticed that incorrect positioning of the top vent is another common mistake. The bottom of the vent is supposed to be no lower than the top of the fins on the refrigerator back.

A few thoughts on air scoops

I recently had the fridge reconditioned by a mob in Sydney who really knew their stuff and were $75.00 cheaper than the city’s most well-known store. (Their name is Accurate Gas Appliances 02 9892 2998.)

As has been discussed on your site, the ideal positioning of the top vent is for the bottom of said vent to be level with the top of the fridge — great if you can afford a new van. However, where the vent is already installed, it would seem like a fairly messy look to make the changes needed for the optimum ventilation.

I have just done an experiment by sealing the back of the fridge as (now) recommended by Electrolux (I very carefully used that expanding foam and it has worked well) and have installed an air vent on the outside of the van which has the opening facing forward and sits over 1/4 of the outside of the bottom vent. This means that whilst travelling the vent catches the wind and forces it into the cavity, over the coolers and out the top. I know that it is next to useless whilst stationary, but with the vent positioned on the outside it is very easy to remove, using four of the screws that hold the bottom vent in place. The idea is to get the air flowing whilst the fridge is on 12-volt and battling to hold down the temperature.

I have only had one trip away with it to date and it seemed to work well. However, I am sure I am not the first to try this as it seems so obvious, but I was wondering what the possible negatives could be and can I learn from someone else’s mistakes?

(from Adrian Ryan's Campfire Board)