Binna Burra National Park South East Queensland

Binna Burra National Park South East Queensland

If you are into bush walking this place just has to be about the best in the world. The camp is set on the edge of a vast wilderness with panoramic views of the Numinbah Valley and the far away coastal plains and Gold Coast. For starters there are 160 kms of graded walking tracks, so you can literally stay here several weeks without running out of new places to visit as long as your legs hold out! Of course it is all in sub tropical rainforest just to add to the charm of the picture perfect setting. Here you will find misty forests of Antarctic Beech with many trees dating back over 2000 years.

Misty sunrise

Forester's everywhere!

The road up from Nerang really is an inland version of the Great Ocean Road in Victoria as you rapidly climb up a ridge in second gear with distant views of the Gold Coast on your left. As we arrived at night there are no pictures! It's definitely one of those places where getting there is a part of the adventure. The road is very picturesque and the prettiest parts are usually on the very tricky single lane bits. You tend to travel around the 40 kph rate as it is very windy and uphill for the first 20 kms.

Slightly east of the camp - lovely picnic area

Outside the Tea Rooms

It's a good idea to stop at the National Parks Information Centre as you will definitely need the excellent maps they provide. The centre is actually manned by volunteer members of the Binna Burra Natural History Association and there are all sorts of goodies for sale as well. Binna Burra Mountain Lodge which incidentally is a fully accredited eco-tourism retreat, is 500 metres from the end of the road just past a section of very tricky single lane road.

Following the cliff tops

Lookout on Dave's Creek walk - 10 kms

After climbing the last hill it opens out onto a fairly large clearing with the beautiful lodge buildings on the right and lots of Paddy Melons grazing on the lush grass. The views towards Hinze Dam are truly spectacular particularly as the mist lifts or storms approach. Keep going and you will get to a large parking and picnic area and the end of the road. The Lodge and the camping area are two separate entities, so do not head towards the Lodge. The camping area known as the Binna Burra Mountain Campsite is on your left up a tiny dirt road, and the sign posting to be perfectly frank is totally abysmal and completely hopeless at night.

Afternoon storm approaching

Rear view of the tea rooms

Check in is very warm and friendly and staff are wonderfully helpful with everything on computer, so it is well organised. You are given a good map of the camp and some printed sheets on activities. If you arrive after hours your site information is thoughtfully placed in a glass box to the left of the front office. We have stayed here many times and management are very flexible. You do pay in advance, BUT if the weather turns bad you can ring them and transfer your booking to another date. One year we had to do this three times due to a very wet season, but there wasn't a solitary moan -great stuff! Why can't more parks do this?

Early morning - wonderful

Is this the Tardus or a phone box?

Reception is in a building adjacent to the most delightful tea rooms overlooking the Numinbah Valley - stunning, breathtaking views, better even than the ones at Sublime Point Bulli or Cambewarra Mountain in NSW. A light meal here is compulsory! A Forest Burger costs $8.50 and a very large delicious pizza costs $13.30. The range of tempting desserts is - naughty! They are open for dinner till 8 PM only on Friday and Saturday nights. They open everyday at 8 AM. You can order a very nourishing picnic lunch ($8.25) for the next day's walk. They also have single BBQ meat packs ($4.40). Bear in mind though that fires are not permitted in the National Park and dogs are not allowed.

Wet weather drying area

One of three camp kitchens

Space here is at an absolute premium, so a van/motorhome of 16/20 feet should be considered the absolute biggest that will fit a site. If you are making a weekend visit it most advisable to book if you want a powered site as there are only six sites suitable for vans and campers, and 12 tent sites. Most other sites can't accommodate a car - a lot of visitors are from overseas and arrive by bus. There are also 17 on site Safari Tents with electric light and bunks and these all come complete with views that stretch forever.

Views to die for!

The rainforest wood box

The camp itself is slightly on the dusty/muddy side as there is no grass cover as it doesn't get much sun as it is heavily treed. Ground cover is limited to a most attractive forest litter. Don't let this put you off though as the outlook is gorgeous and you are really here for the walking. It's one of those places where you definitely need a large mat outside your van and you need to religiously remove your shoes! Of course there are sites here that we would rate as six star!!!!! These are the Safari Tent Cabins located on the side of the mountain with the most stunning views imaginable. In the "good old days" one used to be able to pitch a tent on these sites! There are little intertwining pathways going every which way, and at night concealed glow lights transform it into a magical fairyland in the forest. The gardens in this area are beautifully maintained and there are many tree ferns. The Safaris are extremely popular and obviously the main source of income for the camp yet they are quite modestly priced.

Waist line eliminators!

A photographer's delight

The early morning birdsong here is very different to other parts of Australia. Rather than all singing at once, here they take it in turns to "solo" - most interesting! Brush Turkeys are everywhere and extremely popular with overseas tourists and kiddies. If you hear a woof woof woof guttural sound at sunrise you have been "invaded" by Brush Turkeys. Tent campers are in the most strife as these are very intelligent guys and have learnt how to open containers and even plastic bags. Their antics are a delight to watch, particularly if it's someone else's camp! There are half a dozen resident Kookaburras near the Safari Tent camp kitchen. Theses guys will swoop down on meat thrown up in the air. When it's cold and wet they turn into gorgeous fluff balls!

Where's my breakfast folks?

About as steep as Dave's Circuit gets

Remember it does rain a fair bit up here and having no grass it can get a bit on the muddy side. We tend to always bring gum boots or riding shoes to keep our footsies dry. Slip on walking boots without laces and with high sides seem to give the most comfort for walking if you haven't got the $300 jobs. It is really essential to have at least two pairs of shoes and a pair of slippers in case the whole lot gets damp! It can also get very cold even in summer, so bring lots of woollies as well as a weatherproof jacket, and a raincoat is mandatory. The winds up here can be quite eerie. Luckily you tend to hear them more than feel them - interesting! Might be related to the Min Min Light perhaps?

Walks closest to the campsite

Lichens and mosses are everywhere

The main amenities here are absolutely world class! Where else in the world can a guy stand at a urinal and gaze at six star views? It is just fantastic! The loo with a view! The rooms are beautifully tiled and all sinks and benches are stainless steel. Showers have benches, lots of hooks and a shower curtain. Soap dispenser and hot air dryer completes the picture. There is a much less posh set of amenities at the other end of the camp. Although basic they are fairly clean and functional except for mirrors! The sinks are on an island bench, but the mirrors are on an adjacent wall! Obviously designed by a bearded architect who never needs to shave. A lick of paint wouldn't go astray though! The laundry is behind this building. This is where you get hot water for washing up. Excellent laundry tubs with plenty of hot water, Two washing machines at $1 and 3 X 20 cents a load - good value. A good large gas dryer at $1 for 15 minutes. Have a look at the beautiful rainforest timber top benches in the laundry - wonderful stuff!

The Border Track - very good

Misty rainforest - early morning

The camp kitchen is gorgeous and fits in beautifully with the feel of the camp. We liked the very thoughtful provision of glass to make it less drafty. There are a couple of camp kitchens in the Safari tent area as well. These are fantastic if you enjoy breakfast with the birds and both have stunning views - they are also the first to get full sun on crisp winter mornings. All sites are numbered, but boundary definitions on some aren't that clear. Some will not fit an annex and there are no van concrete pads, but rather oddly a few tent sites do have pads. The best van sites are 2/3/4/5 with our favourite being 2 as it gets the sun early in winter - the downside is too much light at night. No sites have sullage or water apart from 2. You do need a long lead for some sites as most poles are at the rear.

Magnificent Banksia

Cascading Elkhorn

Fires on the ground are allowed, BUT there is zero wood in the area and it is totally illegal to collect it in the adjacent National Park. Oddly management do not sell wood! You can buy firewood on the way up. Look for a sign on the left exactly 2kms from where you turn off the Nerang/Hinze Dam road. Try not to miss this if you need wood as it is a long way back down! If your site doesn't have a BBQ just nick one from another site! We always bring our own just in case.

Flowering Raspberry Ferns in Spring

Honeymoon couple or A'vanners?

Drinking water is lovely spring water and we have never had tummy troubles. In a word - delicious! TV reception is fantastic, not that you need it. Similarly with radio. There is a really good adult radio station run by the ABC on the Gold Coast FM 91.7. Telstra digital and CDMA work at full strength and there is a Telstra normal coin or card phone outside the tea rooms. This is rather cute and looks like an environmentally friendly version of Dr Who's Tardis! Take a peek! Very clever, blend in with the environment architecture. Mobile coverage is VERY patchy on the way up though.

Corrugated iron looks fantastic

Oddly the kiosk doesn't sell papers, but you can get them up at the lodge. Speaking of the Lodge - if you fancy dinner in front of a log fire this is the place for you! Unless you love driving it is essential to bring all your supplies with you as it is a long way back to the nearest shop at Beechmont. The kiosk does not sell any fruit or veg at all, but does stock a few basics and of course you can eat all meals on the premises . They have an excellent range of area related books and maps.

Over the door in the Tea Rooms

Early morning at Binna Burra

Now lets get walking! First up the warnings! There are leeches here in summer. Using lots of repellent such as Rid or Bushman's (all natural) is the best defence. Just pull them off. The real pros all wear gaiters too! We tend to walk in light covering clothing. There are ticks in the dryer areas, particularly near the cliff tops, so avoid laying in the grass during lunch or rest stops. If you are dead keen we suggest you get the book Bushpeoples Guide to Bushwalking in South-East Queensland ($22.95) before visiting and do some forward planning! Larger Brisbane camping stores such as Campmart keep this book. Alternatively pick up a copy of Discovering Binna Burra on Foot ($11.85) at the kiosk on arrival.

Not much room for an annex!

These are compact bushy campsites

There is every sort of walk imaginable here - even one for blind people called the Sensory Trail. A word of warning though - start out early as it can get EXTREMELY dark here very early in the afternoon as most trails are on the side of the mountain and there is a canopy of trees over most tracks. Even in full moonlight you cannot see your hands in front of your face! Now that's just about as dark as it gets and quite unnerving. We really got caught on our first visit and wrongly estimated the time required and ended up coming home using torch light. We are very safety conscious as they are countless rescues every year in the more isolated parts of Lamington National Park - particularly near the Stinson aircraft crash site.

Brush Turkey on the prowl!

Take your phone as it does work in many areas and could help in an emergency. If you have one take along your EPIRB emergency radio beacon. Yet another warning - traverse trails in the direction recommended by National Parks. We didn't on the Ships Stern walk (20 kms) and found that the last 6 kms was uphill and was almost heart attack inducing - hands going numb - that sort of thing! The tracks are mostly well formed and the sign posting is generally very good. Having said that, only the foolish venture out without a good map.

Local 5AM alarm clocks!

Dave's Creek Circuit - wonderful walk

The Border Track is the main route and you will find most others branch off it. Don't be put off bush walking in the rain here as it can be quite enjoyable. A good introductory track is Dave's Creek - about 12 kms. This heads uphill on the Border Track for 2 kms, descends for 2 kms, then follows the cliff tops through gorgeous country before finally looping back to the Border Track. Spring sees wild flowers everywhere on this walk. If you are lucky you may spot a few Koalas. Banksias come into full bloom around May - August, and there are lots of Cedar trees - we LOVE this walk as the scenery changes all the time even over short distances! National Parks say it's a half day walk, but if you are new to bush walking you will find it more enjoyable it you make it a day trip having lunch at Numinbah Lookout.

Early morning dew

The main Binna Burra sign after the last hill

We leave around 9 AM and take sandwiches for lunch as fires etc. aren't allowed. If you are new to walking it is very easy to overdo it here. It's best not to start with 20 kms walks, but go for say 5 kms. There are dozens of other walks - best to get a book as mentioned above. One final tip. If taking walks starting from the Information Centre it is best to drive your car down there as the return walk - we call it Heartbreak Hill, can really finish you off, after a long walk! As soon as you get back it is very important to have a long hot shower. This seems to prevent the aches and pains starting.

The Dave's Creek Circuit track

Entrance to most of the walks near the camp

When you get worn out from walking there is plenty to explore in the area. Nearby Hinze Dam is well worth a visit - no camping allowed. The delightful village of Canungra is in a beautiful setting and has a fantastic bakery with all sorts of delicious treats. Just going down even little track off the road down can while away an afternoon. There is a good lookout on the hill behind Beechmont. You can visit this when towing as the turn around is huge. Day trips to the Gold Coast are quite feasible and in the past we have popped down to the pictures and the shopping is of course legendary!

The magnificent Tea Rooms

The only negative we have on this camp is the apparent lack of an after hours on site manager. We have sadly had a couple of rowdy nights here where partying has gone on into the next day and trees have been cut down and burned! An on site manager would solve these problems and make ones stay even more enjoyable. It is very odd as there is a lovely little flat over the tea rooms. Lights nailed on to trees is more than a wee bit naughty! Being at the end of the road there is absolutely zero traffic noise at night and very little to disturb ones peace during the day.

A Brush Turkey

Just a final word on the fantastic staff. On our last visit we got a lot of rain. During a heavy fall there was a knock on the van door from young Tracey (without a raincoat!) advising that we had a phone call up in the office. This turned out to be a fellow A'vanner who wanted to join us for lunch in the tea rooms. Now what van park would bother to come and get you in the pouring rain for a non-emergency call? Tracey you are a fantastically dedicated worker and we hope they make you boss one day!

Getting here is an adventure and most will have zero problems towing, provided speeds are kept right down. Coming from the north or south travel to Nerang via the excellent Pacific Motorway. Watch for signs to Beechmont and Binna Burra (clearly marked). About 1 1/2 hours from Brisbane or one hour from Coolangatta. We suggest those coming from the West still go via Nerang as the Canungra Road is not a brilliant up-hill towing road. We have gone back down it many times without problems, but we do take it easy.

A great use for a piece of rainforest timber

You can get more information on the Binna Burra Lodge website or write to Binna Burra Mountain Campsite, Beechmont via Nerang, Queensland, 4211 or phone (07) 5533 3622 fax. (07) 5533 3658. You will find a lot of info on the area on the internet - we suggest for starters you follow the links we have given then use google.com.

Cost for a powered site in August 2001 was $23.00. This is a bit expensive for Queensland, but you must remember this is in World Heritage country and there are zero alternatives, but in our view it is very good value. The Safari Tents are a bit of a bargain and start at $40.00 a double.

We absolutely recommend Binna Burra - you can't go wrong!

Bob and Chrissy Eustace

Click on the compass for a map of the area